From Shirt Pattern to Nightshirt Pattern

When I was young, I used to buy a lot of sewing patterns. In those days they only cost a couple of dollars, and I always hoped that the next pattern would turn out just as I imagined, with no messy alterations or disappointments.

Even as a teenager, though, I had favorite patterns that I cut out and sewed over and over again because they were so reliable. Doing that, I learned that it is much easier (and more fun) to make style alterations than alterations of fit. That's why, before I shelled out $10 or $17 for a nightshirt pattern, I thought I'd try and make my own by restyling a pattern I'd already altered for fit.

I've made nightgowns, pajamas, and nightshirts before, and they are generally loose-fitting, for comfort. However, I've often been awakened in the night by an oversized nightie that didn't move with me when I turned over in my sleep. To avoid getting tangled up in my lingerie, I thought I'd try something with less wearing ease. This is the pattern I started with: Jalie 2322. Here are the shirts I made from it, as the designer intended.

Basically, I made the shirt longer, left off the collar and cuffs, and turned it into a pullover when I cut it out. If you're interested in more detail, I've included a list of my changes.

• To plan the bottom width of the sleep shirt, I measured the bottom width of an oversized tee-shirt. I used the finished length measurement from a nightie listed in a catalog. Both these measurements were quite satisfactory--I believe there's a lot of room here for individual preference.
• I omitted all the darts except the side bust darts. If I make another night shirt, I will run gathering threads between the side seam dart markings, and ease in the fullness, rather than sew the darts. I think this will look better. It makes no difference in comfort.
• I turned the front-buttoning pattern into a pullover by folding the shirt front pattern at the center front line, and placing this new center front on the fold of the fabric.
• If you cut your neckline deep enough (and this one is, in fact, deep enough to pull over my head, even with all the buttons buttoned), you don't need a placket at all. However, I like the look of Grandad's old-fashioned shirt, so this time, I made the simplest neckline placket I know, for fastest results. I measured a polo shirt placket for length, and used three buttons because it looks right. Next time I make this, I will make a full-blown tuxedo shirt placket for that old-time menswear look.
• I cut the neckline about three inches deeper at the center front, and about half an inch deeper at the center back. I selected this by trial and error, cutting until it seemed comfortable. I finished the edge with 3/8 inch plush lingerie elastic, because that's what I had on hand. Bias tape or self-fabric bias strips would probably be better in the long run.
• I used the sleeves just as they were, and made up the missing length with a lace edging instead of a cuff, because it was much easier and quicker. It's also less constricting, if that's a consideration.
• I made a shirt-tail finish on the bottom edge by folding the sewed-up garment, free-hand cutting the side vents, and making a rolled hem. (I've made a lot of shirts in my day.) You could make a even hem, or finish it with lace or other decorative edgings to suit your fabric.